Historic walking tour
Free English/Spanish tour Tue + Sat 10 am from Plaza de la Independencia. Or paid Q+L tour $20/person for a fuller version including the Compañía ruins.

San Felipe · UNESCO 1997
The colonial old town (1673) — 7 pedestrian blocks, 4 plazas, rooftop bars overlooking the bay
Late afternoon (4-7 pm) for golden hour + bearable temperatures. Avoid noon to 3 pm — direct sun on white cobblestones, brutal. Avoid weekend lunch when cruise ships dump 500+ tourists. Tuesday/Thursday morning = nearly empty, ideal for photos.
Free English/Spanish tour Tue + Sat 10 am from Plaza de la Independencia. Or paid Q+L tour $20/person for a fuller version including the Compañía ruins.
The wooden altar covered in solid gold leaf (11 m high), one of the few Spanish treasures to survive Henry Morgan's 1671 sack. Free entry, $1-2 donation suggested.
Casa Casco (cocktails $8-12), Tantalo Kitchen (the most famous), La Concordia (Cathedral view). Reservation essential on weekends.
La Diabla, Habana Panama or Las Clementinas on Sunday night — cover $5-10, Cuban vibe, open until 2 am.
Casco's southern tip, French obelisk commemorating the Lesseps canal effort. Bóvedas tunnel (old Spanish prisons) = covered passage + seafront restaurants.
Much more than in 2015. By day and evening up to 11 pm, yes — especially main streets (Av. Central, Plaza Mayor, Plaza Bolívar). Past midnight, some western corners (Calle 8-9 toward Chorrillo) still warrant caution. Tourist police is present.
Half-day minimum for the 4 plazas + Cathedral + San José. A full day if you want to add the Teatro Nacional + rooftop + dinner.
Very few. Most are $20-40/person. For cheap local : walk 5 min to Mercado de Mariscos (ceviche $5-8) or down to Bella Vista (varied, $10-15).
Partially. The plazas are flat but the cobblestones are uneven. Many sidewalks lack curb cuts. Churches usually have a step at entry. Ask a local for the flattest itineraries.
Cathedral: allowed without flash. San José: allowed except during mass. Compañía (ruins): OK everywhere. Always ask before photographing worshippers in prayer.