Buy fresh fish
Corvina (sea bass) $4-6/lb, red snapper $6-8/lb, lobster $15-20/lb. Ask locals which stall has the queue — usually the best.
San Felipe · Av. Balboa
Mercado de Mariscos
The fish market + ceviche temple — $1-5/cup, the quintessential Panama experience
Free06:00 – 15:00San Felipe
Why go
- The cheapest, freshest ceviche in Panama City — $1.50 to $5/cup
- 5-min walk from Casco Viejo — perfect morning combination
- Watch the fish unloaded in the morning (6-9 am) — sea bass, dorado, lobster, octopus
- Upstairs restaurants : grilled fish at 1/3 the price of Casco restaurants
When to go
Early morning (6-9 am) to buy fresh fish as fishermen unload. Noon to 2 pm for the busiest ceviche stall. Avoid 2-3 pm (closing). Mondays often quieter than weekends.
What to do
Ceviche at the counter
Indoor stalls : corvina ceviche $2.50, mixed ceviche $4-5, octopus ceviche $5-7. Served in a plastic cup with crackers and hot sauce. Eat standing.
Upstairs restaurants
Mariscos del Mercado, La Vasija, Restaurante del Mercado. Sit-down, whole grilled fish $10-15, seafood paella $14-18. Bay view from the upper hall.
Before a Casco sunset
Perfect routine : $5 ceviche at the Mercado around 4 pm → walk across to Plaza Mayor → rooftop bar for sunset. Total $25-30, 3 hours of experience.
How to get there
- Metro
- 5 de Mayo station (Line 1) — 15-min walk along Av. Balboa.
- Bus
- MiBus along Av. Balboa, "Mercado de Mariscos" stop.
- Uber / InDriver
- $3-5 from Bella Vista, $4-7 from Punta Pacífica.
- On foot
- From Casco Viejo : 5-7 min on foot along the waterfront. From Cinta Costera : 15-20 min.
- Parking
- Free parking before 9 am (rare), paid after ($1-2/h). Weekends, forget it — come by Uber or on foot.
Expat tips
- Cash mandatory : 80% of stalls don't take card
- Smell test : fresh fish smells like ocean, not "fishy". If it smells, politely refuse and change stalls
- Skip the tourist stalls right at the entrance — head inside where locals eat
- Bring a water bottle : no fountain inside, stifling heat in summer
- Public restrooms : $0.25 — bring coins
- Outfit : casual, ready to get dirty. The floor is wet with melted ice everywhere
FAQ
Is the ceviche safe?
Yes at busy stalls (high turnover = recent fish). Avoid empty stalls or any uncovered ceviche bowl that's been sitting. Aim for the stall with a local queue.
Upstairs restaurants — reservation needed?
Not on weekdays. Weekend lunch can be packed — arrive before noon.
Is there parking?
Limited and paid. Better to Uber or walk from Casco.
Wheelchair accessible?
Difficult. Slippery wet floor, many stairs upstairs. The main ground floor is flat but narrow.
